Calcutta synagogue-ed...20-July 2014

The mission of Swain family (let me mention that unlike the previous visits which was by the father-son duo, the latest ones are with the better-half too) started with a degree of apprehension because of the uncertainity about the ways and means of getting inside the historical piece in the city. The object was the David Magen synagogue. This is located at the confluence of the Brabourne Street and Canning Road.

My wife had been there to Nahoum’s restaurant in new Market because some articles on the internet suggested that they were issuing passes for entry into the monument. However, they denied and suggested that we should meet the local caretaker. So off we went with all apprehensions in mind. But all were put to allay because of the caretaker Rubael Khan who also incidentally happened to be from Odisha (specifically from Kakatpur). His father was associated with the synagogue for 65 years and he stays there in the campus premises of the synagogue. 

This structure is older to the Neveh Shalome synagogue which lies adjacent to this structure. Incidentally, this term i.e. Neveh Shalome means the "Oasis of Peace" and finds mention in Isaiah. Coming to our theme i.e. David Magen synagogue, it was built in the honour of David Joseph Ezra by his son Elia David Ezra. The picture below was the best that I could take of the junior Ezra.

I know that it is not a perfect one and the picture could have been better but for my limited photographic skills. If one carefully observes the picture, one would see two pictures. They belong to his family members namely Joseph E D J Ezra and Sir David E D J Ezra. Their portraits are appended below.

About the family, the Ezras made it big in real estate in Calcutta. The famed Ezra street is named after the senior Ezra and the Esplanade mansion has been made by them.
As one enters, one is welcomed by the Star of David. I was waiting how it is represented in architecture. And lo, it stood atop an almost 20 ft door with inscription written all over it in Hebrew.

Star of David on top

The other thing which I was waiting for was Fire; with my limited knowledge about the community, I knew already that they worship fire and a synagogue could not be an exception. So here I was, a fire had been burnt since the last mass i.e. on Friday. There was a wick glowing through a large glass which seemed to have some oil. The caretaker explained that half of the glass was filled with water and oil was over it. This was done to prevent formation of soot on the glass surface and also to prevent the glass from overheating.

The fire which I described

As we entered, a unique design welcomed us on the door pane. There was this structure which seemed like a serpent but I could not make anything out of it. The caretaker could not also help me in asessing the structure. Viewers may go through it and let me know teh significance of the structure at the entrance.

And after we entered, I was amazed by the vastness of the structure, the magnificience of the emptiness and the beautiful creation of the designer frescos, an eerie silence and the smell of vintage. Basically the structure is a simple one in the form of a large hall almost like a Church, excepting for a seated area in the middle.

That was basically the most sacred place of the structure. It was called the Ark and it contained the sacred Torah texts. There are chairs for the scholars to sit. I did some googling and it came out that 3 Rabbis and 7 officers are supposed to be present for every synagogue.

The ornate designs on the walls and the tall wall catches the eye. Chandeliers are leisurely hung and we also have anciently designed ceiling fans (which still run). There are arched walls and there is a first floor which was supposed to be the place for women. There is a sacred place on the front which has a firepot hanging. It was tastefully decorated.

Notice the firepot at the centre

The floors are impeccably clean; I checked out from the caretaker that The trust dedicated for the purpose of maintainance of the synagogue takes care of the cleanliness and maintainance of the arts and artefacts within the synagogue. The frescos are beautifully painted and the original ones are still intact. The vintage has done little to the texture and glow of the paintings.

A narrow corridor leads us to the first floor. The banister has iron structure but the stairs are made of wood. Some of the steps creek of age but it does not matter as visitors are few and so are the dutiful followers who throng to the Temple. The chairs have the original cane binding; only few have been replaced and this is visibly true.

A fresco in the main hall

Majestic sideview

View from the top

Floor tiles

Chandelier perhaps; but majestic

Another fresco

Seating space

Stairs to the first floor; notice the bannister

The women's prayer space on the first floor

In all, this gives one a sense a splendid-ness. Looking forward to a new discovery next week.