The Kolkata Bloggers

Sunday, November 29, 2015

23-Aug 2015: Sarat Chandra's abode with the Boses...

It has happened only twice that someone else other than the Swains were doing chronicling. The first case was with Dr. Anindya Biswas while we were touring the Marble Palace. The second happened recently with the Boses (Mainak Bose Sir and his better-half) accompanying us to Deulti.

This is a town hardly 65 kms away from the city but it seemed quiet close because of the excellent roads. The gang of 5 went by Mainak Sir's car. The planned point of visit was the residence of the Bengali genius Sarat Chandra Chattopadhyay. His famous novels were Palli Samaj (1916), Choritrohin (1917), Devdas (1917), Nishkriti (1917), Srikanta, Griha Daha (1920), Sesh Prasna (1929) and Sesher Parichay (which was published posthumously, 1939).

The village is like a typical Indian village of Eastern India. Though I have not traversed much in rural Bengal but courtesy my travails in Odisha, I observed that it is all the same. There is a typical smell of fresh air with a tinge of stale water and cow-dung coming at times. While reaching the exact place, I could guess the reason why this bard was heavily skewed towards village, village related practices and village related plots.

A notice at the entrance

The house is located at a scenic location with the Roopnarayan river on one side and a medium sized pond in front of it. It is a two-storied building. During the heydays of the writer, the river was very close by; though now it is quiet far off from the house. The entrance has a large entrance gate with the notice of the building being a heritage one. Something was inscribed on the two pillars of the gate (because it was written in Bengali, I could not decipher much) whose photographs are there in the end of the article. A beautifully maintained garden full of different types of crotons, atleast 3 varieties of ixoras and series of deodhar trees welcomed us as we entered the house.

The house
A statue of the writer

On the ground floor, only one room to the left was accessible; it housed the chair and the table which Sarat Chandra used to pen many of the his novels. The caretaker mentioned that the writer used to sit and write looking the Roopnarayan flow by.

The study of the writer

The building is entirely made in Burmese architecture. The writer was heavily influenced by Burma because of his first job at Rangoon and his marriage too which happened there. A typical (also visible) design of this school of architecture is the spacious and airy corridors surrounding the living rooms.

Spacious corridors
The courtyard inside had a granary where probably grains used to be stored when inhabitants used to stay full-time; again a typical ingredient of rural Eastern India.

The granary in the courtyard

The rooms above contained the physical belongings and photographs of the family. Among the belongings, we see a Made in Japan clock, a charka gifted by Gandhiji, a cupboard, a hookah, a cupboard, some medicine boxes and a writing table. An idol of Krishnaji still gets Puja.

Belongings I
Belongings II
Belonging III
Belonging IV

Sarat Chandra's brother, Swami Vedananda, (a follower of Belur Math). His samadhi is also seen along with his in the backyard.

The samadhis

This building was declared Heritage or Historical Site as per the Clause 2 of the West Bengal Heritage Commission Act 2001 (Act IX of 2001) in 2009. Seems, the maintenance has been good because of this. 

The notice declaring the house as a Heritage site

But honestly speaking, I was expecting much more filled house, filled with his books, letters which the Bard would have exchanged and more photographs. But I am happy that whatever is there has been maintained well. The caretaker told that his father was a friend of Sarat Chandra. I was expecting more crowd. It being so near, I wish many more parents bring their wards to make them aware of this important Bengali and besides this the kids might get a taste of rural India absolutely different from the horn-conking streets and cramped concrete structures of Kolkata.

As has been my typicality, the last photographs shall be the that of my accomplices. Lest I forget, indebted I am for the car trip and the ride offered by Mainak Sir.


A four century old Krishna temple at Deulti

My accomplices for that day

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